Practical work: the technology of sewing an “Iroqi” skullcap
“Iroqi” skullcaps are decorated with flowers stitched in raw silk using a counted-thread stitch called “sanama tekis chok”. The flower is stitched along squares counted by threads, so a special mesh fabric (canvas) or a cotton fabric whose threads can be counted and pulled is used; the canvas is dipped in fabric glue beforehand and dried so that it stays stiff. The skullcap consists of the top, the kizak (side band), the jiyak (edging band), the lining and the outer fabric; when the flowers of the top and band are stitched, they are joined with the lining and quilted with pilta (rows of tiny stitches). The jiyak is usually cut from dark velvet along the diagonal of the fabric; the size is fixed by head circumference, for example size 54. Sewing, ironing and machine work — with a needle, scissors and iron — are done only under the teacher’s or an adult’s supervision; an iron and hot steam can burn.
Put the work stages in order: prepare fabric, stitch flower, cut, lining, quilting, attach edging band, finishing. Real needles, scissors and iron are used only where and when the teacher is present; other groups draw a diagram.