☰ Contents · Technology

Sewing room, weaves of fabric and hand stitches

Lessons 66–69 · 4 lessons · Sh. Sharipov, N. Muslimov, O. Tolipov, Q. Abdullayeva, O. Qo‘ysinov, V. Sattorov, S. Ahmadaliyev, M. Mo‘minova. Mehnat ta’limi (Labour Education / Technology), Grade 5. Sharq Publishing, Tashkent, 2015
67

Practical: twill and plain weave; faces and threads of fabric

Textbook: pp. 132–137
GoalLearn weaves (plain, twill), the right and wrong side, and warp and weft threads.
New words
warp (lengthwise thread) · tandaweft (crosswise thread) · arqoqselvedge · milktwill · sarja
Explanation

Fabric is formed by the interlacing of lengthwise (warp) and crosswise (weft) threads. The simplest weave is plain: warp and weft threads alternate, and the right and wrong sides are the same. Plain-weave fabrics (calico, bo‘z, batiste, linen) are strong and dense. In twill, diagonal lines running from left to right and bottom to top show on the right side; twill fabrics are elastic and soft but less strong than plain. In twill a repeat has at least 3 threads and with every weft thread the pattern shifts by one thread. The right side of fabric is found by its printed design, smoothness, nap and cleanness. The lengthwise thread runs along the selvedge; the fabric stretches little lengthwise and more crosswise; pulled quickly along the warp it gives a ringing sound; the warp thread is thinner and smoother, the weft thicker and more fuzzy. These signs are visible under a magnifier.

Worked examples
Calico is plain weave: both sides alike; velvet has a nap, and the right side is the napped one.
The direction parallel to the selvedge is warp; so garment parts are usually cut along the warp.
Class activity

Weaving with paper: cut a 10.5 × 15 cm white paper lengthwise into an even number of strips (best if an adult cuts), and weave coloured strips over and under for plain weave; glue ends. Then twill: under 2, over 1. Stick it in the album.

Practice
1
How are the threads arranged in plain weave?
2
In which direction is the warp?
3
What shows on the right side of twill?
4
Why is a garment piece usually cut with its length along the warp?