☰ Contents · Technology

Folk crafts and contests

Lessons 21–22 · 2 lessons · O‘. O. Tohirov, I. Karimov, M. M. Maksimova. Technology (Texnologiya), textbook for Grade 8 of general secondary schools. Ilm Ziyo, Tashkent, 2019
21

Crafts: embroidery, gold-thread work and atlas weaving

Textbook: pp. 85–88
GoalKnow crafts such as embroidery, gold-thread work and atlas weaving, their centres and famous products.
New words
embroidery · kashtachilikgold-thread embroidery · zardo‘zlikatlas (silk fabric) · atlasskullcap (doppi) · do‘ppi
Explanation

Crafts connected with fabric are very old in Central Asia, and women mostly practised them: embroidery, gold-thread embroidery, sewing suzani and patchwork quilts, and carpet weaving are among them. A master of embroidery is called a kashtado‘z or kashtachi. Each region’s embroidery is known for its own stitches and patterns: for example, masters in Nurota, Bukhara and Samarkand used the yo‘rma stitch more, while Tashkent masters used the bosma stitch. The doppi is one of the best-known items of Uzbek embroidery: doppis from Chust, Shahrisabz, Bukhara and Namangan are known, and the Chust doppi with white pepper motifs on a black ground is especially famous. Zardo‘zlik (Persian zar, “gold”, do‘zi, “sewing”) is the craft of stitching patterns with gold- or silver-coloured thread; the gold embroiderers of Bukhara became especially famous in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Silk and half-silk fabrics such as atlas and beqasam were woven by weavers of Margilan, Kokand and Namangan; Margilan is still a centre of atlas today. Today the “Hunarmand” association supports craftspeople, and the master–apprentice tradition passes crafts from generation to generation.

Worked examples
The two parts of zardo‘zlik are zar, “gold”, and do‘zi, “sewing”, so the word means sewing with gold thread.
If you see a doppi with white pepper motifs on a black ground at a market, you can say it is in the style of Chust masters; someone looking for fabric for an atlas dress first looks at the work of Margilan masters.
Class activity

Map game: pin a map of Uzbekistan on the wall. Each group sticks cards next to the right city (Chust, doppi; Margilan, atlas; Bukhara, gold-thread work; Shahrisabz, embroidery). Then pick one craft and write a 3-sentence advertisement for its product.

Practice
1
What is an embroidery craftsperson called?
2
What is Chust famous for?
3
Name 3 centres of atlas weaving.
4
Why have regional differences (each place’s own stitch) been kept in crafts?