Pattern and cutting

There are rules for saving fabric. On flowered or napped fabric patterns are laid so that after sewing the flowers or nap face one way. On plain fabric patterns may be laid in opposite directions. It is very important to lay patterns along the warp and weft of the fabric, since fabric stretches little along the weave. The closer the patterns lie, the less waste: large pieces first, small ones between them. Plain fabric leaves little waste, patterned or napped more. Most fabrics shrink when washed, so before cutting they are pre-shrunk: wool is ironed through a damp cloth (along the warp), crepe is sprinkled and wrapped in a towel, cotton is soaked in warm water, dried and ironed. Synthetic fabrics and velvet are not treated like this; some fabrics must not be sprinkled with water, so test a small sample first. The fabric is inspected for flaws. Chalk lines must be no thicker than 1–2 mm. Narrow fabric is folded in two lengthwise; the middle lines of the front and back skirt patterns go on the fold, then the yokes and the sleeve pattern beside them. Set-in gathers are cut on a 45° slant. Patterns are pinned, marked with chalk leaving the right seam allowance and cut with sharp scissors. The cut pieces: front skirt 1, back skirt 1, front yoke 1, back yoke 1, sleeve 2, and the set-in gathers. Safety: use the iron only under the teacher or an adult, on an ironing board; unplug it when finished and never stand a hot iron with the hot plate facing up. Pass scissors closed; when cutting keep the fabric flat on the table and hands out of the blades’ path; count pins and needles.