☰ Contents · Technology

Modelling and measuring

Lessons 51–52 · 2 lessons · Mehnat ta’limi (Texnologiya) – Labour Education (Technology), textbook for Grade 7 of general secondary schools. Ministry of Public Education of Uzbekistan. Sharq Publishing, Tashkent, 2016/2017 (authors not named in the extracted text)
51

New models from types of clothing; national dresses

Textbook: pp. 178–179
GoalKnow how new models are created from types of clothing (modelling) and the features of national Uzbek dresses.
New words
modelling · modellashtirishbase drawing · asos chizmayoke · koketkakhan-atlas (traditional silk) · xonatlas
Explanation

Modelling is the complex creative process that produces the plan of a clothing model. A new model is taken from the base drawing: this is called technical modelling. The style comes from a fashion magazine or from a picture you draw. The lines particular to the model – darts, yoke, relief seams, hip, waist, hem, fastening, pocket, collar and pleat lines – are copied to the base drawing and must lie as in the model picture, so the proportions of the body are not spoiled. A new shape of a piece is made by dividing the pattern into imaginary parts, sliding them and closing the main darts. For a national-dress model the base drawing of a set-in-sleeve dress is used. The Uzbek national dress is valued for its modest look, comfort and for suiting every age. The dress with a whole skirt and a yoked top has survived not merely as a symbol but because it is a form tested over centuries and suited to climate, nature and way of life: its freely falling shape lets air circulate naturally in hot dry weather. The lining of the yoke is usually of cotton, so the dress can also be made of synthetic fabric. The yoke shape (oval, rectangle, angular), collar and sleeve types, gathers, pleats, bias pieces, set-in gathers, embroidery, piping and cord change over time. Khan-atlas fabric has a large, clear pattern, so it is cut into few pieces. After the sketch, modelling is done on paper; scissors are used only for paper, with pencils and rulers, and passed closed. For school national-dress days a comfortable, respectful style is chosen that suits every pupil.

Worked examples
When the skirt is cut whole, the fabric’s pattern stays unbroken.
The model lines are copied onto the base drawing as in the picture: body proportions are not spoiled.
Class activity

Model sketch: draw two new versions of a national dress (yoke shape, collar, sleeve). Write the fabric and decoration for each; use scissors only for cutting paper.

Practice
1
What is technical modelling?
2
Why is the national dress suited to the climate?
3
For gathers, 14 cm is added to the front skirt and 10 cm to the back. How many cm are added in all? (14 + 10)
4
How are model lines moved onto the base drawing?