Calculation formulas; the grid drawing of the dress back
The national dress drawing is made from body measurements and ease allowances. First a calculation table is built: it has each segment’s name, its formula, a sample value and a “My measurement” column. The drawing is made on millimetre paper at 1:4 scale: main lines with a soft (2M) pencil, auxiliary lines with a harder (TM) one. In the formulas half the chest circumference is KAYA and half the neck circumference is BnAYA; below, the working is shown for a sample size we chose ourselves (KAYA = 48, BnAYA = 18, dress length 92, back length to waist 38, shoulder slope 40, shoulder width 12). Grid: dress length BnE = KU = 92; grid width BnBn1 = KAYA + (2…4) = 48 + 4 = 52; to the waist BnBl = 38; armhole depth BnK = KAYA : 3 + 5 = 16 + 5 = 21; back width KK2 = KAYA : 3 + 3 = 19; armhole width K2K3 = KAYA : 4 = 12, half of it K2K4 = 6; waist-to-hip BlBk is a constant segment (16–18 cm). Back neckline: width BnBn2 = BnAYA : 3 + 0.5 = 6 + 0.5 = 6.5, height Bn2Bn3 = BnBn2 : 3 ≈ 2; for the shoulder point BlE = shoulder slope + Bn2Bn3 = 40 + 2 = 42; shoulder line Bn3E1 = shoulder width + 1.5 = 13.5. Results are rounded to 0.5 cm and each pupil works with their own measurements. Lines are drawn with a ruler, set square and curve ruler. Safety: take care with sharp pencils and set-square corners, do not leave them on the table edge, do not put the eraser in your mouth, and pass scissors closed.
Calculation table: using the book formulas, fill the back-piece table for your own measurements (first 8 rows). Draw results on millimetre paper at 1:4 scale. Do not compare measurements.