Modelling and measuring

For a garment to be sewn properly, the measurements must be taken correctly from the body. The person being measured stands upright and relaxed. If there is a mistake the drawing comes out wrong and fabric is wasted. For measuring you need a tape measure, pencil and paper. Length measurements are written in full; for circumferences and widths half is written. The main measurements: neck circumference, chest circumference (which determines the size), waist, hip (18–20 cm below the waist), back width, front width, shoulder width, bust span, back length to waist, garment length, bust height, sleeve length, shoulder slope and upper-arm circumference. In practical work each pupil finds their own measurements: heels together, body in natural position, arms down. Measure over light, loose clothing, not a tight T-shirt; the tape is neither pulled tight nor loose. Shoulder, arm length and other measurements are taken from the right side of the body and written in the “My measurement” column, then checked by the teacher. Ease allowance is the amount added so a garment is loose enough, from 2 cm to 6 cm (marked Q). Measuring is a private matter: measure only yourself or work in the pairs the teacher sets, never discuss or compare anyone’s numbers, laugh at them or say anything negative about another person’s body. A measurement is just a number, not a fault. Ease allowance is added, since every person’s body is different.